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Our FAQs are designed to provide quick answers to questions that customers commonly have about our product and services. We hope you find the information you are looking for. Please feel free to contact us to learn more about our amazing services.

YES! Once the snow has cleared and the lawn has dried out some, a light raking (with a PLASTIC leaf rake only) remove lingering fall leaves and grass blades that did not survive winter. Raking loosens matted grass clumps, which can smother new growth and helps with snow mold recovery. Too much dead, matted grass will prevent your lawn from breathing and taking in important nutrients as well. 

1. Rake and remove any debris or dead grass from the area. 2. Break up the soil. If soil seems hard, aeration first would be recommended prior to seeding. 3. Amend the soil if leveling is needed after removing dead grass. 4. Sprinkle grass seed evenly across the patch area, thick enough to cover the surface but not so thick that the seeds pile up on top of one another. 5. Lightly rake in the seed to distribute it evenly and sprinkle top soil to protect the seed. 6. Lightly water the area. Keep the seeds moist throughout the day as temperatures increase. 

Oftentimes, invasive grasses are mistaken as crabgrass (annual weed). But, there are actually quite a few other unwanted grasses that it could be (perennial weeds)— the vast majority are considered uncontrollable grasses (vs controllable) and will need to be killed out of the lawn with glyphosate (roundup).  They often appear as clumps, wider blades, faster growing, and lighter color than Kentuckyblue grasses.  Spray the plant with gyphosate and repeat as needed until dead.  Dig out the dead grass and repair with sod or by re-seeding the area.  Keep moist until rooted or seed start to sprout.

In Davis County, it is most likely call Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS) or frog eye.  It is the most destructive disease of Kentucky bluegrass in Utah. Necrotic ringspot is particularly damaging to bluegrass because it is a perennial problem and the fungus attacks and kills the roots and crowns. Thus, recovery from a disease outbreak is very slow. Best practices include a program with slow-release, low-dose nitrogen fertilizers, fungicides, coupled with strict watering and maintenance practices.  For more information or to sign up for the fungus lawn program, please call or text today!

Rain is perfect for the spring pre-emergent application, as pre-emergent needs to be watered in within 14 days of treatment to activate.  Water is needed to "set" the pre-emergent and allow for protection against seed germination.  As well, fertilizers need water too. "Water" can come from any of the following: precipitation, snow melt, or dew point.  

Grub suppression (Acelepryn) applications are applied April-May each season as weather and temperatures allow.  Acelepryn is more than just outstanding season-long grub control. That same application for grubs will control many key surface feeding pests including several species of caterpillars (sod webworm).   And, Acelepryn is flexible as it can be watered in, but it is not required for the full benefit of the application. 

Water turn on/off dates, as well as weekly allowances, vary season-to-season.  Please reach out to the secondary water management provider in your area for specific details.  Please Note: If your secondary water is metered, getting sign-up for the online portal (ask your water management provider) to manage your water usage is invaluable to utilizing the monthly alloted amount most efficiently and effectively. 

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